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9
Vessel Operation
ANCHORING
Your vessel features a Danforth type anchor. The anchor
will set quickly in a variety of bottoms because of its
unique shank pro le and ballasted tip. It is a high holding
type anchor made from products for maximum tensile
strength..
The anchoring process is easier with another person
on board. First be certain that the line for the anchor is
properly attached, to avoid losing the anchor and anchor
line overboard.
Chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock, or
mud on the bottom much better than a nylon line. Being
galvanized the chain will resist corrosion. 3 strand nylon
line has been added to ensure a adequate scope in different
depths and weather situations. The nylon will stretch under
a heavy strain cushioning the impact of waves or wind on
both the boat and the anchor.
To anchor, select an area preferably with a at bottom.
Mud, sandy clay and rm stand afford the best bottoms for
anchoring. Grassy bottoms often resist the anchor taking
hold and end up pulling out grass and roots. Contrary to
modern belief, you do not anchor while the boat is making
headway, or moving forward. In fact, the bow of the boat
should be brought slowly backward, while releasing the
anchor until it hits the bottom. To “snub the line” means
to stop its outward “pay” or movement.
Usually the length of anchor line used should be 5 to
10 times the depth of the water depending on weather
conditions. This ratio is called the “scope”; the minimum
scope under average conditions is 7 or 8:1. If the scope is
too short the anchor’s ef ciency is diminished. A longer
scope cushions the shock load on the entire system.
Once a scope is determined sometimes it is dif cult to
know how much line to let out to reach the desired scope
especially at night. One way to mark an anchor line that
will identify the amount of line is to paint wide and narrow
bands from about 50’ to 150’ in 10’ intervals. The wide
bands equal 50’ and each narrow band would equal 10’.
Distinguish each 50’ band with a different color paint. This
can be done with “see in the dark” paint. Simply tape each
length for the appropriate band before painting it.
After you have anchored, check your position with
landmarks if possible. You need to continue to monitor
these landmarks to make sure you are not drifting. Since
anchoring can also be an emergency procedure, the anchor
and line should be readily accessible. Check anchor locker
to ensure an untangled anchor line.
Once anchored the anchor line must be secured to a strong
tie such as a cleat.
Do not rely on the windlass brake to carry the anchor rode load.
Use a series of full turns and half-hitches around the
cleat horn to prevent any line slippage or jamming. This
is important as the scope may need to be adjusted over a
period of time and you need swift access to the line.
For increased holding power in windy conditions, two
anchors are sometimes set. If your primary anchor drags,
you can run out your secondary anchor without picking
up the primary one. The important thing is to lay them
out at an angle. When setting two anchors, make sure they
are fastened to separate strong ties such as cleats. This is
done in case you need to adjust one later so the line must
be accessible.
Note: In times of high waves a buoy on the rode works as
a shock absorber and allows the vessel’s bow to ride the
wave crests without large strains being transmitted to the
set anchor. These plastic foam buoys can be purchased at
boating retail outlets.
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